Celler de Can Roca RESTAURANT - Gironia
In Girona, one hour drive from Barcelona.
An organized man who wants to make a nice surprise to his beloved one for a special occasion.
A foodie wife.
I had the chance to visit El Celler shortly after it recovered the World’s best restaurant title in the 50 best rating. It is clear that such a prestigious title gives a lot of expectation, especially after the 11 months waiting list.
In Girona village, in a wooded and natural decor, the three Roca brothers have put their strengths together: Josep handles the cellar, Juan organizes the kitchen while Jordi is the desserts specialist.
The long awaited journey begins with a worldwide tour of small amuse-bouches interpreting Korea, China, Turkey and Mexico. To find their inspiration, the brothers explain me they are traveling every year with their whole team. That day, I tasted their Peruvian inspiration through some Nikkei food touches, which is very popular in Spain at the moment (as you can read in my Quique Dacosta and Pakta articles).
Then the second amuse-bouche brings me back 30 years back in time, with a Campari sweet, a calamari alla romana, and a tortilla all settled in an original paper card representing the brothers childhood village. From a miniature tree, I detach frozen olives and savor a warm truffle brioche and a sardine with ajo bianco and almonds.
After the few starters, the low temperature fishes and seafoods dressed with small colored spikes – sometimes a little too salty – remind me of Quique Dacosta’s cuisine. In my opinion, all these Spanish 3 starred chefs have a strong character, and give a high importance to seafood, which is not my favourite part of the food.
My best dishes that day were the suckling pig with green and black garlic and the 72 hours ovened veal with morels melting in the mouth. Finally, the iced mango spheres and the chocolate anarchy are taking part of my favorite desserts of this year.
What I love?
The slow cooking that retain the flavors and juices of the food;
The divine desserts.
I would like?
The menu to change more often;
The ingredients to be more local and seasonal;
More inventive creations;
A more spontaneous and personalised visit of the kitchen.
El Celler de can roca
48, Calle Can Sunyer
Open from Tuesday to Saturday