Geranium RESTAURANT - Copenhagen
On a gentle summer evening, in one of my favorite cities, I tasted the delicacies of an extraordinary multi sensorial chef.
Indeed, Geranium in Copenhagen became a legend last year, when its chef Rasmus Kofoed became the first Danish chef winning the 3rd star.
Set on the top of a building along a sports stadium, I loved the contrasts of atmospheres, when I got out of the elevator into a very sophisticated and futurist universe.
At the tops of the blooming trees, the pretty symphony was driven by the classic notes of the background soundtrack. The amuse bouches were swinging, the colors were coming out, the tasting buds were waking up… and the beauty and lightness of the atmosphere made me dive in a whole new world.
On the table, the Jerusalem artichokes arrived on the beautiful table with chips and a walnut mayonnaise – almost too good to be tasted – and some tiny potatoes cooked in cuttlefish ink were served with their goat butter and burnt thyme.
Chef Rasmus Kofoed won the Bocuse of bronze, silver and gold and the 3 Michelin stars, thanks to his intelligence and the surrealist complexity he develops in each one of his creations. To quote one emblematic example only, the seaweed razor shell made of crispy rice paper, and carefully painted with cuttlefish ink, is a proof of his unique genius.
Also, the delicacy, the poetry and the complexity of a tomato water with aromatic flowers, and jelly ham with crispy pork and ham oil blended the freshness and fat that still illuminate my palate.
A few eggs with ceps, truffles and apple vinegar dressed and tasted in the kitchen broke the moment of silence, and gave to this meal a more lively and relaxed turn.
I let myself get into this festive show, and crunched in the Mackerel balls with dill and cucumber and vinegar granite – A moment of grace and emotion.
The lobster, scallops and oysters revealed a rather unexpected earthy taste, while the lobster with fried leeks and a Chicken with trumpets of death and juniper completed the discoveries with a return to more classical flavors.
Thanks to his modernity and respect of the products and savours, I was conquered by Rasmus’ work and very precise technique. I have attended at Geranium a true moment of excellence where no detail is approximate, and every creation has a right and clear taste. With organic and local ingredients, of course.
Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8.
+45 6996 0020